You Want Me to Put WHAT On My Face...
No, I didn't stutter - I want you to put acid on your face. Hear me out! As an alternative to harsh physical exfoliants (looking at your grapefruit scrub users) there are so many amazing (and gentle!) chemical exfoliants out there, in the form of acids. Let's chat through the main ones and how they can work for you!
Why Should I Put Acid on My Skin?
Skincare is all about trying to achieve the best skin we can, using a variety of tools at our disposal. Chemical exfoliation is an incredible tool to use when you are trying to achieve bright, smooth, even, hydrated, and pore -less skin.
As an alternative to physical exfoliation - which uses granules such as seeds or beads to quite literally remove the top layer of skin by physically brushing it away - chemical exfoliation uses different types of acids to bind to and dissolve dirt, debris, oil, build up, and dead skin from your face. Physical exfoliation is not ideal for those with dry or sensitive skin types while with chemical exfoliation - there is something for everyone!
What Types of Chemical Exfoliants Should I Use?
Like most things, all chemical exfoliants are not created equal. There are three main categories that our skin acids fall into, and each acid does something different.
Most of the skincare products you see on the market for exfoliating will contain AHAs or BHAs, however I want to include PHAs as well because they have a purpose too.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are acids that exfoliate the top surface layer of skin to clear our dirt, oil, or impurities. While that may sound pretty intense, AHAs are generally good for all skin types in moderation and particularly recommended for normal, dry, and sensitive skin as AHAs can also be hydrating.
AHA Benefits: evens skin texture, skin tone, reduces acne scaring, reduces hyperpigmentation.
AHA Types: Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Mandelic Acid.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are oil soluble acids that are more focused on unclogging pores of oil and debris. these acids penetrate deeper than AHAs and are recommended for oily and acne prone skin types. BHAs do not cause sensitivity to sunlight and are also great for ingrown hairs.
BHA Benefits: unclogs pores, treats acne, reduces appearances of pores, great for whiteheads and blackheads.
BHA Types: Salicylic Acid.
Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs) work on the surface of the skin similar to AHAs but are larger molecules. PHAs are considered the next generation of AHAs and are ideal for dry and sensitive skin types as they are fairly gentle and also hydrating.
PHA Benefits: These acids work to exfoliate away dead skin cells and promote even texture and tone.
PHA Types: Gluconolactone, Galactose, and Lactobionic Acid.
When Should I Use Acids in My Skincare Routine?
Acids should be used after cleansing and before moisturizing! As mentioned in my previous article on skin types, the "treat" part of your skincare routine is really where different skin types have the most flexibility to customize their routine with products that meet their specific concerns. Adding in a serum or treatment with the right acid to treat what you want is the best way to maximize your skincare routine's efficacy.
For example, I have generally dry and somewhat sensitive skin however, I am still prone to breakouts - particularly around that time of the month. So, for my personal skincare routine I use this blemish serum (containing salicylic acid, a BHA) after cleansing and follow up with this hyaluronic acid (not actually an acid) and this rich moisturizer filled with natural humectants to hydrate my skin after the BHA.
Because I also have some lingering acne scaring, texture, and hyperpigmentation, I use these 10% lactic acid (an AHA) pads 2xs a week to give a more intense, targeted chemical exfoliation to my skin.
It's also important to keep in mind that some acids (AHAs/PHAs) cause sensitivity to sun exposure, so it's best to use these acids at night and wear SPF the next day! Additionally, BHAs can be drying so if you are using a BHA and already have dry skin (like me!) make sure to introduce the BHA slowly into your routine and follow up with rich moisturizers afterwards!
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